This trip to the Kalahari feels like a distant dream, yet the memories are etched vividly in my mind. I often wonder if it's my exceptional memory or the countless hours I spent immersed in WildEarth safaris during lockdown that keep the spirit of the Kgalagadi alive within me. Regardless, I'm thrilled to have this blogging platform to share my adventures and connect with fellow explorers. So, here we go!
I must confess, I'm not usually an early riser. Sleep has always held a special place in my heart, and no amount of persuasive articles on the benefits of waking up early could sway me. But there's something magical about the bush that stirs the early bird within. On the day we set off for the Kalahari, I awoke with a spring in my step. We embarked on a journey from Cape Town, spending our first night in Calvinia to rest ourselves and our trusty Landy. And with another early start, we continued our journey, stopping by Kenhart to marvel at the awe-inspiring Quiver Tree Forest—an absolute must-see along the way!
Every morning in the Kalahari, we greeted the day before or alongside the rising sun. Armed with a flask of tea (or coffee, for those inclined), a box of delectable homemade rusks, and my camera at the ready, we embarked on our daily quest to unravel the wonders of the Kalahari.
A view from under a Kokerboom.
Sunrise from the boot of a car. A few moments after this I spotted a couple of bat-eared foxes running back to their den!
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, aptly named 'place of great thirst' in the local San language, is a land of extremes. Predominantly hot and arid, the landscape reveals sparse vegetation, interrupted only by the intermittent flow of the Nossob and Auob rivers (well, "flow" might be too generous a term—these rivers mostly run dry, surging with life only after rare bouts of heavy rainfall).
When it comes to wildlife, the park offered us countless breathtaking moments. Over the course of seven days, we ventured through different regions, each day an entirely new chapter of discovery. From encountering a pride of lions with adorable cubs within minutes of entering the park to stumbling upon the astonishing barking gecko (yes, it's real—look it up, they're truly fascinating), the Kalahari's wildlife never ceased to astonish us.
As a photographer, my senses were continually captivated by the colors, sounds, and forms of nature. The reddish sand dunes of the Kalahari, resembling liquid fire as the sun dipped below the desert horizon, the electrifying sensation of a lioness's call reverberating through the air just outside our tent, and the exquisite silhouette of a spotted eagle owl taking flight into the night sky—these moments became my muse, forever imprinted in my creative vision.
There's so much more to share about the wonders of the Kgalagadi, but it's truly a place that demands personal experience. So, for all of you who have been tantalized by the thought of embarking on this journey, I implore you to gather your belongings, leave behind the confines of calendars and commitments, and embark on your own adventure to the Kalahari. But for now, let me offer you a glimpse of my extraordinary journey through a few captivating photo highlights.
Now, let's talk about where we stayed within the park. The northern section, stretching from Nossob all the way up to GrootKolk, is undeniably where the wildlife thrives. Our first two nights were spent at Mata Mata Rest camp, nestled in a self-catering cottage. And then we continued our expedition to Nossob—a word of advice, book a cottage as far away from the reception office as possible to ensure your view doesn't consist of a petrol station. Both camps boasted remarkable bird hides, offering breathtaking views and attracting fascinating visitors like jackals and a plethora of avian species.
However, it was at the Kalahari Tented Camp where we struck gold with our booking—a place that stole my heart. Perched high on a red sand dune, overlooking the dry bed of the Auob River, this unfenced camp provided a truly immersive experience. We spent our days chasing butterflies away from the plunge pool, lounging on the decks, sipping G&Ts, and observing the ever-passing wildlife, including some inquisitive jackals.
As I wrap up this blog post, I can't help but feel a tinge of nostalgia for the Kalahari. It was a journey of a lifetime—a tapestry of colors, sounds, and emotions woven into the fabric of my being. For those who've been yearning for an escape into the untamed, let the Kalahari beckon you.
Jackals come for tea. These Jackals are the locals of the Kalahari tented camp (some even sleep under the stilted tents to get away from the lions)
One of four. This male cheetah was one of four that we managed to spot (excuse the punn) against the vast sandy hills one morning. The numbers of cheetah in the Kgalagadi are small so it was very special to see them.
Lunch time with the birds. This particular lunch spot had us surrounded by sociable weavers. This particular weaver was pretty brave.
Neck and Neck. We stumbled across two male giraffes having a bit of a wrestle, it is the most incredible interaction to watch.
Secretary Bird in Flight. The Kgalagadi is full of these marvellous birds, we were lucky enough to watch three of them drinking together which is a rare siting indeed!
Sleepy head. We were so close to these cubs that every move we made in the car made them curious as to what was happening.
Eyes closed. A mama and her cubs getting some shade on a hot desert day.